Is gel nail polish safe? What to know after EU's TPO ban
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The European Union just banned a common gel nail polish ingredient, calling it "carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction."
Why it matters: TPO, short for trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, remains legal in the U.S. — but the news is stirring concern at nail salons across the country.
What they're saying: "This is really the most overblown 'banned ingredient' thing so far," says cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong.
- Fertility doctor Lucky Sekhon adds: The EU's decision "doesn't mean automatically that gel nail polish is dangerous."
Between the lines: Studies on TPO in humans are limited, but animal research has found that rats that ingested a lot of TPO had fertility issues.
- But people getting their nails done aren't eating TPO, and "the doses that the rats were exposed to were far, far higher than anything one person would be exposed to during a simple manicure," Sekhon says.
- While the EU takes a precautionary approach to banning cosmetic ingredients, the U.S. waits until a substance is proven harmful in humans before restricting it.
Catch up quick: The FDA's new Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act, which took effect last year, does not ban TPO in cosmetics.
- But when it comes to other chemicals in personal products, some states argue it doesn't go far enough — and are drafting stricter laws.
How it works: TPO helps harden gel polish under UV light, keeping nails glossy and chip-free.
- For people getting manicures, the "absolute worst-case scenario, less than 1% of the TPO is left over after you put it under UV," Wong says.
- She emphasizes that the main absorption of TPO is through the tiny amount of polish that might get on the skin as it's being applied.
Yes, but: Gel manicures come with other possible risks — like UV lamp exposure and potential allergens.
To reduce risks, according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association:
- Wear sunscreen on your hands and gloves with snipped-off fingertips before going under the UV light.
- Consider taking breaks from having your nails painted.
- Ensure tools are sterilized and cuticles are left alone to prevent infection.
Another option: Use TPO-free gel polish or traditional polish.
The big picture: While occasional gel polish use appears low-risk for clients, nail technicians may face long-term chemical exposure on the job.
