We've gone from soy to oat to almond to pistachio, and now we're back to just regular milk.

• The big picture: "By the end of the 20th century, it seemed like cow's milk was over," The New York Times' Julia Moskin writes.

But in 2024, America's consumption of whole milk jumped 3.2%, while consumption of plant-based milk dropped 5.9%, The Times reports, citing market research firm Circana.

• That was only the second increase in whole milk consumption since the '70s. And it was the third straight year that plant-based milk consumption fell.

📈 The money quote: "For dairy milk to be growing at all is surprising, much less by these numbers. … This reverses trends that have been in place for decades," John Crawford, Circana's dairy expert, tells the Times.

Driving the news: Nut and plant milks aren't cheap, though coffee chains like Starbucks and Dunkin' have been ditching the extra charge for nondairy milks.

• Plus, many come with sweeteners, emulsifiers and stabilizers, which makes them another ultra-processed food, Moskin notes.

At the same time, Americans have started prioritizing protein and healthy fats — both of which can be gleaned from cow's milk.

👀 Between the lines: Interest in raw milk is also spiking. Circana says sales skyrocketed by 17.6% in 2024.

• Raw milk has become a common rallying point for right-wing media and wellness influencers, Axios' Natalie Daher reports.
• But federal health officials say the lack of heating and pasteurization poses risks, like exposure to harmful bacteria such as E. coli and listeria — a concern that's been amplified by bird flu spreading among dairy cattle.

💡 The bottom line: Just plain old milk is making a comeback in grocery stores and on social media.

• For many members of Gen Z and Gen Alpha, who grew up surrounded by milk alternatives, cow's milk is the hot new thing.

People walk in silhouette through Grand Central Station yesterday morning in New York City.