José Andrés joins D.C.'s escalating foie gras fight

Driving the news: Andrés waded into the foie gras debate on X this week, questioning why the city is targeting a luxury delicacy when there are bigger problems to tackle.

• "Sure but then let's ban beef and pork and chicken," he wrote in response to a user calling foie gras cruel, before pointing to hunger in the U.S. and abroad.
• He doubled down Thursday: "So we are banning all meats? If Duck goes all goes next?" — citing immigration enforcement and other challenges facing restaurants.

• "I've been through this in California," he added, referring to the state where foie gras is now partially illegal after a 2012 ban. "One more issue for restaurants to handle!"

Between the lines: The chef serves "cotton candy foie gras" at Bazaar Meat downtown, among other spots. Andres didn't immediately return Axios' request for comment.

Catch up quick: Animal-rights activists say they gathered a record 31,726 valid signatures to put Initiative 86 on November's ballot.

• The measure would ban force-feeding birds to enlarge their livers and prohibit the commercial sale, distribution and importation of foie gras and other fattened bird liver products.
• Supporters argue the practice is cruel. Critics question the focus on a niche luxury food, the influence of outside funding and government restrictions on what restaurants can serve.
• Pro-Animal DC spent more than $336,000 through early September, with major backing from an Oregon animal-rights organization and Dr. Bronner's soap company.

State of play: Butterworth's chef Bart Hutchins, one of the city's most outspoken foie gras defenders, is taking his opposition from the dining room to the campaign trail.

• He's selling tickets to a $150, four-course foie gras tasting menu running Oct. 27 through Election Day, alongside the restaurant's regular menu.
• Dishes include Waldorf salad with shaved foie gras "snow," a Jean-Louis Palladin-inspired chestnut soup, and duck breast with chanterelles — plus a foie gras Twinkie.

Zoom in: Proceeds from the tasting menu will support a prospective "foie gras legal defense fund," Hutchins tells Axios.

• He's exploring legal challenges if the ban passes.
• Hutchins points to New York City, where a 2019 foie gras ban has faced years of litigation, as an example of how the fight could continue after Election Day.

The intrigue: The chef behind haute-MAGA hangout Butterworth's and longtime Trump critic and humanitarian José Andrés make unlikely allies in the foie gras debate — and are among the few prominent D.C. chefs willing to speak out.

• Hutchins, who has called himself a "lone wolf defender" of foie gras, says Andrés weighing in "felt like a big deal. The tide's turning a little bit."
• He says he's spoken with prominent local chefs who oppose the ban but are reluctant to invite controversy — or risk losing business in an already tough economy.
• Foie tasting menu tickets are flying — and someone even ordered a full-foie buyout of the restaurant next Tuesday.

What's next: Hutchins plans to bring his opposition to polling places on Election Day, potentially with other volunteers.

• He's already printed signs declaring: "Stop Fascism. Vote no on 86."
• Meanwhile, Pro-Animal DC is continuing its campaign with duck mascots, yard signs and voter outreach.

The bottom line: Hutchins sees the increasingly public argument over foie gras as a welcome change of pace in an otherwise heavy election season.

• "We're all arguing about whether or not we should be able to eat goose liver," he says. "It's at least compelling."