Not worth the stars: Why Virginia said no to Michelin
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The very first D.C. Michelin guide. Photo: Nicholas Kamm/AFP via Getty Images
Virginia is noticeably absent from the forthcoming Southern restaurant guide that Michelin announced earlier this month.
Why it matters: The state tourism office declined to participate in the pay-to-play guide — a whopping $360,000 to be included, reports Axios Richmond's Karri Peifer.
The big picture: A Michelin star is one of the restaurant world's top honors, including in the U.S., where the French tire company has been inspecting restaurants since 2005.
- But in recent years, Michelin's American coverage has often been contingent on which tourism boards pony up cash, reports the New York Times.
- The payments—dubbed "partnership" money—started with a $600,000 payout from Visit California in 2019, which the Michelin guides' director told the NYT helped offset the cost of reviews.
Zoom in: For Virginia tourism officials, declining a deal with Michelin came down to money — $120,000 payments over three years.
- The decision was also about "responsible stewardship of taxpayer dollars," Juliana Thomas, Virginia Tourism Corporation communications director, tells Axios. VTC is a state-funded organization.
The intrigue: Michelin launched in D.C. with great fanfare nearly a decade ago, anointing a dozen restaurants with stars — including the Inn at Little Washington, which has always stood out as the only Virginia restaurant in D.C.'s red book. Also the only three-star destination, the highest honor, which they've retained since 2019.
- D.C. has never paid for coverage. Michelin spokespersons tell Axios that while the organization works with "destination marketing organizations in some areas," this is not the case for all Michelin guides—and there are no partnerships in the District, including for last year's hotel guide.
Yes, but: Michelin's presence in D.C. isn't just about great restaurants. Upon its launch, Michelin's then-international director Michael Ellis told Washingtonian that Michelin's tire business — ironically, its bread and butter — was a factor in picking destinations.
- "We need to make sure the locale is a locale that's of interest to the Michelin group, because, as you know, our main activity is not publishing guide books, it's making and selling tires," Ellis told Washingtonian.
- As the home of the federal government, Ellis said D.C. offers proximity to federal agencies that regulate tires and also the armed services, which Michelin supplies.
How it works: For many, the prestige of Michelin is worth the cost: It can drive a huge increase in tourism and diners.
- A restaurant that earns one Michelin star can expect to see around 20% more business; one that earns three can expect business to double, Food & Wine reported.
- Culinary tourism is one of the fastest-growing travel segments.
Yes, but: Many high-profile Virginia chefs and restaurateurs Axios spoke with were okay with the Old Dominion's decision.
- In Staunton, two-time James Beard semifinalist Ian Boden runs the kind of ambitious destination restaurants, the Shack and Maude & the Bear, that Michelin might award. A star would help business, Boden tells Axios. But he also admits he's tired of shelling out to food festivals and publications for "exposure."
- "I'm kind of proud of the state for saying f--k that" to Michelin.
Between the lines: Secretive Michelin inspectors rate restaurants based on five core criteria — but some chefs like Inn at Little Washington alum Daniel Gleason worry about Michelin's impact on individuality.
- His tiny wood-fired trailer Sumac, just down the road from the Inn, earned a place on NYT's "Best Restaurants in America" list last year. It boosted business so much that he had to hire staff. But he tells Axios, "Awards are a blessing and not necessarily a curse, but they're not all a good thing."
- "Chefs are doing some awesome stuff in the state of Virginia without having to worry about Michelin. Places have the ability to create a restaurant culture that's against the grain without having to impress any guides."
Between the lines: Other chefs may buck against it, but The Inn's owner Patrick O'Connell credits Michelin for his country escape. He tells Axios that inspiration for the 47-year-old Inn came from traveling to countryside French starred restaurants.
- As for being included in the city guide, "We have always been regarded as a DC restaurant since most of our guests come from the metropolitan area."
What we're watching: Ever since Michelin launched in the District, chefs and diners have wondered if and when its coverage will cross the river to represent the greater Washington area — especially since The Inn, nearly two hours away, makes the cut.
- Michelin spokespersons tell Axios that "no date or details for the 2025 selection for DC are available at this time," so stay tuned.