As visitors crowd Mediterranean resort towns, Turkey's Bodrum is bliss
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Bodrum's coast is dotted with pristine bays. Photo: Tunahan Turhan/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty Images
Last month, I was lounging on a balcony overlooking the Aegean Sea when I got a call from a high-powered D.C. source. When I shared where I was vacationing — Bodrum, Turkey, within eyeshot of Greek islands — she chimed in: "Oh, my son is there, too!"
- It got me thinking: More people should know about Bodrum.
The big picture: It's a bonkers era for Mediterranean getaways (mobs of Instagrammers, eyewatering prices, tourist taxes). But in this Turkish Riviera sea town, known for its white stucco villas, azure waters, and breezy coastal mountains, you can find a relaxing escape.
What to expect: Birthplace of Herodotus and known as Halicarnassus in ancient times, the rotund peninsula is crowned with jagged edges, making for intimate coves and breathtaking vistas.
- You can drive from one end to another in about an hour. To me, Bodrum's beauty is that each village and bay has a distinct character.
We stayed near Gümüşlük, historically a fishing village with a bohemian vibe, a shoreline of chaise lounges and nighttime tavernas (eat: grilled branzino, meze, and raki).
- Bodrum town center is known for its harbor and narrow backstreets full of merchants and bars. During the day, consider visiting the 15th-century Bodrum Castle, and the surviving ruins of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. A nearby Roman theater from the 4th century B.C. still hosts concerts.
- On the northwestern shore, Yalıkavak is known for its ritzy marina, a waypoint when cruising the eastern Mediterranean. Luckily, whether or not you own a megayacht, ogling at the rich is free.
If Yalıkavak is new money (see: Salt Bae and Gucci), Türkbükü exudes an old money charm. There you'll find luxury beach clubs and the only Michelin-starred dinner around — at the iconic Maçakızı Hotel.
- Maçakızı ("Queen of Spades") is enough to put a "jealous glint in the eyes of Côte d'Azur or Greek Isles hoteliers," says the Michelin Guide. Its menu combines contemporary Mediterranean cooking with Turkish classics.
- In fact, here's a Washington connection for you: Maçakızı is headed by Sahir Erozan, who decades ago operated a popular Adams Morgan restaurant and lounge called Cities. Head chef Aret Sahakyan got his start in D.C. kitchens, including a stint working with Jean-Louis Palladin, who brought French nouvelle cuisine to Washington.
What to try: Bodrum offers something to all travelers — budget-friendly rooms in the hilly cove of Gündoğan (Catamaran Hotel) to 5-star resorts with white-sand beaches (Mandarin Oriental).
- You must consume as much local produce as humanly possible: figs, peaches, etc.
- For Turkish-style mussels stuffed with herbed rice, go to Midyeci Şehmus Usta.
- For a family-friendly night out, Arka Restaurant & Pizzeria is uber-popular for its generous pies and Italian desserts.
- For your sweet tooth, find the historic Yunuslar bakery for everything from baklava to profiterole.
- For a day trip (or more), there are convenient ferries to the Greek islands of Kos, Leros or Kalymnos.
💭 My thought bubble: Amid the gloom pervading overcrowded Mediterranean retreats, I found Bodrum the quietest it's been in many years. Many Turks this year cut short their vacations (or skipped out entirely) due to high domestic inflation. That happens to make it an advantageous opportunity for travelers with U.S. dollars.
- Plus: This year, Turkey ended the visa requirement for Americans.