First look: Bûcheron brings elevated French-American cuisine to Kingfield

• It's owned and operated by Demi's longtime chef de cuisine Adam Ritter and his wife Jeanie Janas Ritter — both former employees of Gavin Kaysen.

What to expect: Upscale French fare with touches of Minnesota influence, like the maitake mushrooms foraged up north or the locally sourced raspberries in the jam accompanying foie gras. Entrées range from $22 for pasta to $40 for wagyu steak.

• The dimly lit space is small — there are fewer than 50 seats, including those at the bar — but cozy. Despite the limited room, the noise level remained manageable during our dinner.

My thought bubble: Though the dishes I chose were relatively unadventurous compared to items like octopus Bolognese and venison tartare, everything I ordered was the best version of it I've had.

• I've eaten a lot of pasta in my life, but the mascarpone filling in the celery root tortellini, paired with an earthy chicken and acorn broth, made it my new favorite pasta in the Cities.
• Plus: Ritter may have come from a restaurant known for its small plates, but at Bûcheron, the portions are generously sized.

My tip: Do not skimp on dessert. I ordered both the lemon tart and sticky toffee cake, and after trying, I wished my dining partner and I had ordered the whole menu.

Details: 4257 Nicollet Avenue. Open Monday-Saturday, 5pm-10pm; the last reservation is at 9:30pm.

• There are only a few reservations remaining in January and February, but the restaurant saves 10 seats for walk-ins.