American Elm replicates its elevated dining experience with brunch

Best bites: The trout and creamy smoked cheddar grits, buttered to perfection.

• The fish is crispy and savory, laid on a bed of thick asparagus. It's a dish that, to me at least, didn't scream brunch; it sounded like a dinner plate, but fit perfectly for a morning meal.

For those with a sweet tooth (hey, that's me!) I couldn't resist the waffle.

• The lightly toasted waffle came topped with whipped cream, berries and powdered sugar. Did I feel like a 6-year-old ordering it? Yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely.

What to try: The restaurant's espresso martini, which uses a Colorado spirit, Woody Creek Roaring Fork Vodka, and Atost coffee liqueur.

Our thought bubble: American Elm has transformed a cliché brunch staple with its grapefruit mimosa, a deceptively simple but full-bodied and refreshing cocktail that I'm ready to proclaim as the best mimosa in Denver.