Taste Test: NYC bagel icon H&H rolls into D.C.
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The classic bacon, egg and cheese. Photo: Anna Spiegel/Axios
H&H Bagels, the "Seinfeld"-famous New York brand, just opened its first-ever D.C. franchise in Mt. Vernon Triangle.
Why it matters: The beloved Upper West Side staple may finally hush those New Yorkers who sniff "there's no good bagels in D.C." (though let's be real … they'll still say it).
Dig in: H&H has been slinging "artisanal water bagels" since the '70s. They're still kettle-boiled in the Big Apple with New York tap, and then baked to order on location.
- Spokespersons tell Axios that "the magic of New York City water" is all about its minerality — soft water makes for "tender" dough — neutral pH for ideal fermentation, and consistency.
Between the lines: The boil-and-ship method is also handy for H&H's expansion. In addition to seven NYC locations, franchises are opening in D.C. (look for more soon), Florida and beyond.
State of play: D.C.'s mod-minimalist shop opens early at 6am with an all-day menu of breakfast sandwiches — including their best-selling bacon-egg-cheese — new specialty lunch bagels, and classic schmears, smoked fish, deli salads and babka.
- You can get picky with customizations, including degrees of toastiness, cream cheesiness, scooped-out centers, etc.
What to try: The B.E.C. is delicious with gooey American, crisp-smoky bacon and delicate egg crepe — stacked hot. Pro tip: add their new spicy-scallion cream cheese for kick.
- For all the water science, the bagels have a nice chew-to-soft ratio, but the everything topping could be punchier. (More salt! More onion!)
What to skip: When it comes to $15 sandwiches, I wouldn't run back for Southwest Turkey.
Best bites: Nova salmon "with the works" — copious capers, thin-sliced onion and tomato — which tastes like Saturday morning in New York.
- Also, warm babka. You can smell the melty chocolate unwrapping it.
Anna's thought bubble: I was an H&H regular in my New York years, and the D.C. shop feels true to the brand's neighborhood roots — unfussy, hits the spot. Is it good? Yes. Is it brave-downtown-traffic good? Not yet, but few places are.
What's next: A "grand opening" Thursday with free tote bags and gift cards for the first 200 customers.