Caviar pancakes, baijiu & mahjong: Tim Ma's new Lucky Danger levels up in D.C.
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Maryland crab lo mein, one of the cheffy dishes at the new Lucky Danger. Photo: Courtesy Rachel Paraoan
Chef Tim Ma brings Chinese prime rib dinners, baijiu cocktails and mahjong to Penn Quarter tonight with the opening of a playful, full-service spinoff of his popular Chinese American carryout, Lucky Danger.
Why it matters: More than just a restaurant, Ma aims to create a Chinese American culture and entertainment spot near Chinatown, which has struggled to maintain its Chinese businesses.
Catch up quick: Ma, who cut his teeth in upscale dining, launched Lucky Danger as a pandemic pop-up playing homage to the beloved Chinese American classics served at his uncle's NYC restaurant.
- The takeouts dish up lo mein and orange chicken in Arlington and at Nats Park, plus a Baltimore outlet opening soon.
Dig in: This new Lucky Danger 2.0 boasts a full-service dining room, three bars and a tucked-away mahjong parlor in back.
- Ma says, "It's more upscale than a box of lo mein," but the vibe isn't meant to be fancy.
- That said, diners can splurge on "allium pancakes" (their riff on scallion) with whipped tofu and caviar, Maryland crab lo mein, or shareable platters like that prime rib with hot mustard and hoisin jus.
Between the lines: Ma tapped chef Robbie Reyes, who trained and worked in Lima, Peru, to lead the kitchen. Cue some fun chifa-style twists on dishes like chaufa rice with duck, foie gras, and aji amarillo chilis.
Drink up: Ex-Moon Rabbit bar talent Sunny Vanavichai pours Chinese-accented riffs on classic cocktails in the front bar, like a jasmine G&T.
- For something sultrier, try the 21-seat Lucky Club lounge in back with rouged walls and glowing lanterns, where many drinks are spiked with Chinese medicinal tinctures or baijiu.
The intrigue: Through Lucky Club, you'll discover the mini-mahjong parlor, filled with three automatic tables and a five-seat bar. Guests can book online for open play ($45 per table). Ma and his father will start weekday lessons soon that combine a meal and games.
- While food flows elsewhere, the mahjong room is all about playing and sipping — specifically overproof whiskeys. Ma and his father developed a taste while teaching at Arlington's Sparrow Room, where games could stretch into the morning over a bottle.
"It can be dangerous," Ma says, "but we have fond memories."
If you go: Lucky Danger. 709 D St., NW. Open Weds-Sat, 4-10pm.