Sneak peek: All-day Italian gem to open in Navy Yard
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Homemade focaccia sandwiches at all-day Ama. Photo courtesy of Giada Paolini
Ama, a casually chic Italian restaurant from D.C. hospitality vets, opens near Navy Yard on June 4.
Why it matters: The neighborhood haunt stands out from a wave of new Italians with all-day service, bountiful aperitivo, and cooking from lesser-seen regions in the north and south.
Dig in: Chef Johanna Hellrigl won fans for globetrotting fare at Doi Moi and Mercy Me. Now, she and husband/bar talent Micah Wilder (Chaplin's, Zeppelin) are homing in on her Italian heritage and upbringing with an intimate family restaurant.
- Ama's promises a warm welcome with a big bar, window bancone (counter) for leaning with espresso or spritzes, and space for walk-ins — plus a host stand that can dole out bellinis to waiting customers.
Context: Hellrigl's late father hailed from South Tyrol, a mountainous province up north, while her mother is from Liguria on the Italian Riviera. She grew up visiting family in both areas while her father ran a prominent Italian restaurant in Manhattan.
- Diners will find dishes from both regions on the menu. It leans on Liguria's lighter flavors in summer and hearty dishes from the Dolomites in winter.
🥐 On your plate: Mornings and afternoons bring Caffè Vergnano espressos, homemade pastries, and showstopper open-face sandwiches on Genovese focaccia.
- The thinner style, which Hellrigl learned from her childhood favorite bakery in Santa Margherita, comes layered with combinations like mortadella, crescenza cheese, and pesto, or buffalo mozzarella and semi-secci tomatoes.
At night, Ama feels more like a trattoria with plenty of antipasti, vegetable dishes, homemade pastas, and seasonal secondi like rabbit stew with Ligurian olives or salt-baked fish.
🍝 Between the lines: Hellrigl is excited about some lesser-seen pastas, like Ligurian ravioli filled with wild foraged greens, walnuts, and cheese. Or Tyroleian-style dumplings with speck and tangy kraut.
🍷 In your glass: Wilder says the bar program has big "apothecary vibes." No processed sugar, lots of holistic ingredients like chestnut honey or nettles. Also, a vintage Italian seltzer wand to add fizz. "The entire program is built on the purity of water, bubbles, and temperature," he tells Axios.
- Look for unique sips like a vintage Negroni with 1980s Campari, or frozen gin martinis with wild herb-infused vermouth.
If you go: Ama. 885 New Jersey Ave., SE. Caffè opens at 9am, Tuesday through Saturday.
- Aperitivo and snacks run from 4pm to 6pm, and dinner starts at 5pm with limited reservations via Resy and walk-ins.
Editor's note: This story has been updated to clarify new hour changes and that Andrew Limberg is no longer involved in the project.