The Wharf's new Greek getaway

The latest splashy New York export to dock at The Wharf: Limani, a chic Greek seafood restaurant.

Why it matters: If you're a fan of indulging in fancy branzinis and martinis directly on the water, get excited.

Context: Limani belongs to a Manhattan breed of sleek, expensive, and often very good Greek power restaurants (e.g. Estiatorio Milos) that don't really exist in D.C.

• This location, billed as their flagship, is the fifth. Others reside at Rockefeller Center and in Boston's Chestnut Hill neighborhood.

The look: Limani's massive, three-story Aegean dining room seats 500. It's got an imported Greek marble bar, a full-service terrace, an indoor/outdoor rooftop, and floor-to-ceiling windows for water views everywhere.

Claims to fame: Seafood like Loup de Mer flown in from the Mediterranean; charbroil grills for roasting lobster or lamb chops just so; and no butter in the house — olive oil only.

On the plate: Chef Lonnie Zoeller, who worked at Policy and Vinoteca back in the day, turns out Greek classics including tomato salad, spanikopita, and short ribs Youvetsi in addition to all the seafood.

In your glass: Mythos beer, Greek wines, and a cucumber Cosmo for when the mood strikes.