Review: Wolf of Tacos' new Central Fare spot is laid back, still delicious
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The first plate of tacos Sommer ate. Photo: Sommer Brugal/Axios
I'm back with another resto review.
- Today, we're talking The Wolf of Tacos.
Why it matters: Earlier this month, chef Eduardo Lara broke my heart when he announced the pop-up taco stand would be ending its residency at ZeyZey.
- But a week later, The Wolf opened its first brick-and-mortar location at Central Fare inside the downtown Brightlight station, and I had to check it out.
State of plate: The menu includes the beloved classics like the al pastor, pollo asado and carne asada.
- It also featured a few new — or new to me — options, like the campechano (a mix of suadero and longaniza) and aquiles (wagyu beef tendon and chicharrón) tacos.
- Most tacos are served with a heaping pile of diced white onions and herbs.
- Diners can also help themselves to a variety of pickled vegetables and sauces when picking up their plates.
What we ordered: Al pastor ($5.50), carne asada ($7.00), aquiles ($6.00) and the costilla ($8.50).
- The pastor and asada are classics for a reason — the pastors are cut fresh from a vertical spit and top contenders for best in town.
- But the standout was the aquiles. The meat was super fatty and had a delicious flavor, while the chicharrón offered the perfect counter crunch.
The vibe: Casual and informal. Guests order at the counter and your buzzer lets you know when to pick it up.
- There's a full bar a few feet away, so we ordered a beer and ate our meal at the counter.
Yes, but: Central Fare is a food hall, but as someone who used to take the Brightline fairly frequently, I found it hard to separate the space from feeling like a place of travel, not a food destination.
- The bright lighting was more TSA line, less inviting dining establishment.
The bottom line: The tacos are still delicious.