I’m new to Ethiopian food and Abugida, a family-run restaurant on Central Avenue, was the perfect introduction
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While wasting time on Facebook a few weeks ago, I came across a post from a neighbor raving about the new Ethiopian restaurant on Central Avenue — Abugida. So, my wife and I decided to give it a shot.
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The restaurant is warm, well lit and inviting. Incense burns in the air, East African art adorns the walls and a medley of pop-sounding African music set the ambiance.
I don’t know the first thing about Ethiopian cuisine, but the staff — mostly the family that owns Abugida — was more than happy to assist.
The menu is authentic — or so I was told — but not extravagant.
Our server explained the basics, offered a few recommendations and had a good understanding of American tastes — suggesting a few things that would be more approachable and a few others that might stretch your culinary boundaries.
Abugida is working to build a fan base among the vegan crowd, so there are ample vegetarian options, including the “Vegetarian Feast,” which my wife happily ordered.
I went with the Zilzil Wat, a beef stew that I was told was savory and spicy.
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While the orders were meals unto themselves, Abugida offers something of a tapas feel.
Food is delivered “family style,” which is traditional in Ethiopia.
Our meal arrived on a massive platter of Injera, an East African flatbread that serves as your utensils. (Note: Ask for extra napkins.)
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The Wat was as advertised, rich and spicy and absolutely delicious. They suggested a side of cottage cheese, which is typically mixed into the Wat to dim the spice, but cottage cheese is on the short list of foods I truly detest. Still, I was curious enough to give it a try on the side, and as cottage cheese goes, it wasn’t bad.
The vegetable sides — a buttery carrot and cabbage medley, potatoes, collards and split peas — ranged from good to exceptional, but the star of the show was the lentils, which my wife quickly noted, she “could eat every day of the week.” Every bite packed a ton of flavor. The lone drawback was, after inhaling three rolls of Injera during dinner, we were both stuffed long before the food was gone.
After dinner, we were offered tea, but told the real gem is Sunday mornings, when the matriarch of the family owned restaurant arrives after church to put on a show, roasting traditional Ethiopian coffee. I’ve already added this to my calendar for future reference.
The total for dinner: A paltry $23.60, not including tip.
Amid the myriad options for authentic international dining along Central, Abugida stands out both for originality and atmosphere, offering an inviting yet traditional experience even for a novice to the cuisine, but more than anything, what sets it apart is the flavor. The food was just damn good.
