Restaurant Review: Kindred

I have an ongoing love affair with Davidson, so when my parents came into town for a visit from the New York City area, I took it as my green light to finally book the Kindred reservation I had been scheming about for months.

Coincidentally, this would also be the week that the esteemed Bon Appétit magazine would name Kindred as #7 in their, “America’s Best New Restaurants 2015” list by Andrew Knowlton.

This meant two very distinct things that would occur undoubtedly: (1) The restaurant would be packed and the kitchen and staff put to the test and (2) The buzz and energy once inside would be palatable.

We walked up and passed a quaint alley with strung lights zig-zagging and realized it was the romantic setting of Kindred’s outdoor dining. It was simple and lovely, so we took a moment to drink in the setting before heading inside the pretty teal doors of the two-story restaurant.

Inside Kindred, you feel transported to a trendy bistro in Paris or New York. The staff and the mixology set up are straight out of the best U.S. hipster scenes in Brooklyn, San Francisco or Austin. It’s just the right balance of tattoo-to-bare-skin ratio and quaffed men’s hair styles that whisper of Paul Newman in his heyday.

The culture extends far beyond the staff extraordinaire, however. The owners have clearly placed themselves to live and serve “the industry” itself.

You find gentle and not-so-subtle homages to the staff members throughout the restaurant, from the $6 bar option to buy the kitchen staff a round of beer to say thank you, to their spin on the Food Safety-compliant “Employees Must Wash Your Hands” signs in the restrooms, to their “Big F*cking Cookie” award to the staff member most deserving of being celebrated. What it comes down to is they are just really, really cool and it shines through in everything that the restaurant does.

So understandably, with the awesomeness factor and the recent national recognition, the place was completely slammed.

One staff member let us in on the fact that normally, a Saturday night has about 150 seats (not including walk-ins) and tonight’s reservations were at 305.

Despite the crush of hungry diners hankering for a taste of Charlotte’s newest celebrity, we were seated within a reasonable time, ordered immediately, and began receiving plates shortly thereafter.

The tapas-style sharing menu and wine list reflect the knowledge and worldliness of the Chef and Sommelier owners, husband and wife, Joe and Katy Kindred. There were wines that even a more seasoned wine drinker might not recognize, but beautiful options that challenged you to go outside of your comfort zone for a welcome surprise.

The menu was simple and sophisticated, local and approachable with price points that allow many to partake. For four, our server suggested 3 plates each (12 total), but we decided to end our experience at our 7th dish in order to feast on dessert.

Here is what I tasted, starting with my favorite in ascending order:

PORK RAVIOLI ($13) served in a creamy, salty Fonduta sauce and topped with Pea Shoots, this was a table favorite. The ravioli was perfectly cooked al dente and had the flavor and texture of incredibly fresh homemade pasta. It had the kind of comforting, rich flavors that would make a cold rainy day turn bright and warm.

MILK BREAD (FREE). If ever there was something to have dreams about, it would be this item. When you pulled at the woven sections, the fluffy, happy puffs you put in your mouth melted away like a warm, savory cotton candy. The butter was salted without reservation – I am wildly obsessed with salt, but I found our serving to be more of a dousing than a seasoning. The milk bread would be at the very top of the list if it were a thing to be ordered.

HALIBUT ($20) was grilled and served with Peperonata and a Castelvetrano Olive Tapenade. The fish fell apart when coming into contact with our forks and the combination of so many buttery components made for a decadent pescatarian Note: The item was printed on the menu as Red Snapper on the menu, but swapped out.

CRISPY OYSTERS ($13) served with Dill Yogurt and Calabrian Chile Oil were crunchy and briny. The dill yogurt was a silky companion that happily reminded me of fried pickles when eating with the crispy oysters.

SQUID INK CONCHIGLIE ($14) with North Carolina Shrimp and Sea Urchin Butter. Alas, this was the dish I ordered immediately and had the highest hopes for in being the most delicious star of the night. While the house made pasta was wonderful and the shell shape allowed for capturing more sauce, the sea urchin butter lacked the delicate essence of the sea that characterizes the spiny creature. In other news, I discovered that the Sea Urchin was renamed after being initially called, “Whore’s Eggs”. (This women’s college alumna flared at the former title.)

PEACH COBBLER ($7) served with Buttermilk Ice Cream was just as it should be – warm, crumbly, and sweet with the warm summer sun.

FARMHOUSE CHEESES ($4 each). I opted for 3 cheeses of the wider selection, though all of them looked and sounded like cheeses I wanted to be eating. Our server helped us deliberate through a wide range of nutty, creamy, bloomy varieties and I was satisfied knowing that the options were fruitful and all were delicious.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO ($9), Grilled Avocado and Egg Yolk. The tomatoes in all the varieties were exquisitely in season and married sweetness with a mellow acidity. The grilled avocado was a partner we waited to try with anticipation. The plate was straight forward and exactly what was expected from the description, yet pleasant nonetheless.

HAMACHI POKE ($10) with Sprite Melon, Waxhawalia Onion, and Benne Wafers. The Hamachi was intoxicating in that the associated flavors were unexpected accompaniments, though fitting once sampled.

CORNMEAL FRIED OKRA ($7) with Peanut Romesco. The most gratifying part of having our meal was that there were no duds, though I had my favorites. The cornmeal coating was crispy and the okra and encasing were both fried to perfection. The only fault I could find was that it merely could not stand against the bigger winners.

**Note the Korean Fried Chicken with Gochujang and Watermelon, as well as the Basil Gnocchi with Heirloom Tomato and Toasted Garlic were both sold out. 

Agenda Pro Tips:

• Go on a Tuesday. It’s when they launch their menu and everything is guaranteed to be at its freshest. Plus, you will beat the weekend crowd.
• Consider the Chef’s Table. With a minimum of $750 (not including beverages or tips), you can have the highest level experience with a private entrance into the kitchen and feasting on the biggest show stoppers of the evening. (Note: The Chef’s Table is offered Tuesday – Thursday at 7pm and has to be booked at least 14 days in advance).
• Order the Birthday Cake. Although I didn’t, we had the pleasure of watching anyone who did receive a ridiculously enticing cake slice served with a birthday candle aglow. I nearly burst into the “Happy Birthday Song” the first time around and am so grateful I refrained. Amateur hour avoided unintentionally.
• Joe and Katy Kindred are most likely present and accounted for in the restaurant during service. Just be careful, since they are some of the sweetest and most welcoming restaurant owners you might encounter (taking into consideration that I am also from New York where people are definitively less approachable).
• The restrooms. Call it what you may, but it’s a 5 star wedding kind of amenity station happening in both the first and second floor restroom. It shows the level of thought the owners put into the restaurant when they have everything from family photos to mints and hairspray. Anyone who understands the humanity behind the business of eating is bound to have immeasurable success.

Kindred restaurant offers an experience where you feel like the guest of honor, but you are still allowed to wear jeans and your favorite t-shirt. There’s no judgment over there, only the omnipresent spirit of good food, wine and cocktails that make memories and bonds.

Kindred Restaurant – $$ out of $$$$
131 N Main Street
Davidson, NC 28036
(980) 231-5000

HOURS:
Tuesday – Saturday Lunch: 11am – 2:30pm; Dinner: 5pm – 10pm
Sunday & Monday: Closed

Website | Reservations | Twitter | Facebook | Instagram | Tumblr

What were your favorites? Tweet or Talk to Me!! I am listening and I want to know! Email, Instagram, Twitter.