Sips and Snacks: Angry Pete's is a Detroit-style pizza powerhouse

• The newest location, which opened in March in Kearny Mesa, is — unmistakably — in an old Taco Bell building.

Best bites: We grabbed a whole (four-slice) pepperoni pizza, thinking it would provide the best baseline from which to judge a new, highly touted joint.

• It boasted a perfectly crispy crust that defines Detroit style.
• Even better, it came with Ezzo pepperoni — the variety that cooks into grease-filled cups with charred edges — which could turn a Tombstone into a delicacy.
• We also ordered a pickle, bacon and ranch pizza, thinking that such a thing graces a menu only when it's proven itself. We were right about that.

The bottom line: Angry Pete's deserves the hype — crispy on the edge and chewy in the middle, it's a quintessential Detroit–style pizza.

• We're not yet ready to render a verdict between it and downtown's TNT Pizza. They're neck and neck.