How Bethany Hallam does fish fries
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Bethany Hallam is shocked at how much she loves fish fries at Community Kitchen (left) and St. Stanislaus Kostka Parish's fish fry at Cellar on Penn (right). Photos: Courtesy of Bethany Hallam
Allegheny County Council member Bethany Hallam is a fish fry superfan, and she has advice on how to make the most of Pittsburgh's extensive options.
The big picture: Axios readers picked Community Kitchen in Hazelwood as their favorite fish fry earlier this month. Hallam says that's her favorite spot of the season so far, but she took some objections to the voting process and wished fish fans had the opportunity to visit as many fries as possible before they voted.
- The progressive Democrat is well known for her blunt political nature, so we took no offense.
The intrigue: Hallam is on a mission to go to as many fish fries as possible and has visited six in the first three weeks of the season.
- She estimates she has visited between 50-60 local fish fries in her lifetime.
- Ideally, she likes to visit three each Friday: early lunch, late afternoon and dinner.
🐟 Context: Fish fry season began on Ash Wednesday and occurs each Friday until Good Friday. Lent runs through April 17 this year.
We talked to Hallam about her love of fish fries, what they bring to the community, common mistakes some make and how to best enjoy them.
This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.
What makes a Pittsburgh fish fry great?
- "The top things I look for is the type of bun for the sandwich — I like the big round buns so I can rip off the ends of the fish that hang over the sides and stack them on top of each other like a triple-decker fish sandwich — and if they're open for lunch, because I can't fit in three a day unless I can start early."
- "Live music is a bonus, but so far I've only seen that at Javor's fish fry [at the Croatian National Hall on the North Side]."
What mistakes do subpar fish fries often make?
- "Soggy fish is the biggest vibe-killer for me. Serving store-bought mac and cheese or pierogies really knocks a fish fry down on my list. No shade to Stouffer's or Mrs. T's, but I can make those at home."
Any advice for people trying fish fries away from their neighborhoods?
- "Go early! Every fish fry I've ever been to runs out of something by the end of the night."
Do you have a favorite fish fry of the 2025 season?
- "Community Kitchen was incredible, and I've been chasing that high ever since I had it. The fish was perfectly seasoned and crispy. The mac and cheese was fresh and cheesy. The haluski tasted like my Grandma's, which is the highest compliment, and the pierogies were handmade, and the flavors inside them were something I've never tried before and have been thinking about ever since."
- "They even have T-shirts and other swag for sale, and all proceeds go to the amazing cause that is Community Kitchen's mission to provide free culinary training and job placement for folks transitioning into the workforce."
What's next: There are three Fridays left to visit some fish fries. Here is a handy map to help you find your favorite.