Fet Fisk takes Pittsburgh's dining scene to another level
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The whole grilled branzino was so delicious that we stripped it clean and our waiter joked it looked like a cartoon cat got to it. Photo: Ryan Deto/Axios
Since opening last spring, the upscale Scandinavian-inspired eatery Fet Fisk has become one of the hottest restaurants in town.
Why it matters: Chef/owner Nik Forsberg's Nordic passion project has paid off with reservations fully booked over a month out, not to mention a James Beard semifinalist nod for best new restaurant in the nation.
The details: On a recent Saturday, a group of friends and I bypassed the reservation backlog by showing up just before Fet Fisk opened at 5pm.
- There were three groups ahead of us waiting in the cold on Liberty Avenue when we arrived at 4:55pm.
- The four of us were seated right away at a table in the bar area.
The vibe: The restaurant took over the space from Lombardozzi — an old-school Italian staple that closed during the pandemic — and added some modern flourishes while maintaining the cozy charm reminiscent of a mobster's favorite red sauce joint, but with a nautical theme.
- The adjacent main dining room can accommodate larger parties and has views of Liberty Avenue through its large windows.
We started with the inventive grilled cabbage Caesar salad ($15), which was served with aged goat gouda, puntarelle leaves and bocarones anchovy dressing. The charred tips of the cabbage were excellent, and there were several bites for each of us.
- Our main dish was the whole grilled branzino ($42). It was big enough for several diners, and we cleaned it to the bone. It's served with seaweed butter that is good enough to eat on its own.
- We also ordered a side of sourdough spaetzle ($12), which I argued with my friends was the best spaetzle in the country. Not everyone agreed, but you should try for yourself.
Best bites: Desserts stole the show.
- The floating island ($14) is a crowd-pleaser hovering on a pool of rich brown butter. Lingonberries provide needed pops of acid. It slowly dissolves in your mouth, like cotton candy, but more satisfying.
- The buttermilk panna cotta ($8) is flavored with wild bay leaf and topped with an apple-peach compote — flavor combinations you wouldn't expect to work, but they do.
To drink: The main cocktails feature Scandinavian flavors and many are made with aquavit, the region's signature spirit. Try the Martinez ($12), the negroni ($10) or the aromatic ($12) made with aquavit, apple brandy, amaretto and citrus.
- Save room for house-made schnapps ($5 to $6). We ordered licorice, chicory and marigold.
The bottom line: The price point at Fet Fisk is reasonable for such an inventive and wonderful menu. It strays from Pittsburgh's usual fine-dining wheelhouse of upscale Italian or New American, but that is what the city's dining scene needs to take another step forward.
If you go: Fet Fisk is open Thursday-Monday. Dinner from 5-10pm. The charming horseshoe bar stays open until 11pm.
- Located at 4786 Liberty Ave. in Bloomfield.