KC's newest izakaya is built for 20
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A look around the room. GIF: Abbey Higginbotham/Axios
Japanese restaurant Anjin fits only 20 people in the East Crossroads, and that's the point.
The big picture: Kansas City's restaurant scene has leaned toward big rooms and splashy openings. Anjin, from Antler Room chef Nick Goellner with Leslie Goellner and Drew Little, bets on intimacy.
- The name, which means "pilot" in Japanese, is a tribute to Goellner's grandfather, who married in Japan after WWII.
The vibe: Hibachi-style cooking anchors the izakaya experience; skewers char just feet away while cocktails and sake move across a short bar. In such a small space, nothing gets hidden in the back.
What to expect: A rotating menu that stretches beyond skewers: fried pork sandwiches, composed salads, desserts, and a sake list curated with the same attention as the grill.
- Cocktails are equally sharp. I had a spritz with Okinawa shochu and kumquat syrup, plus a cold brew martini that balanced coffee and sweetness without going heavy.
Dig in: The pork collar tonkatsu sandwich comes on soft shokupan with crisp fried pork, miso egg salad and shredded cabbage.
- 💭 Abbey's thought bubble: The pork collar tonkatsu is the best sandwich I've had in Kansas City.
- I tried three chicken skewers: thigh with shiso, ventricle with pickled ume and tsukune finished with scallions. Each showed a different side of the same bird.
- The Hiramasa and melon tataki pair a melon medley with chili oil, mint, red shiso, house furikake and ponzu. The dish is bright, cooling and layered.
- Dessert was pandan soft serve with Pocky. It was light, grassy and playful after the heat of the grill.
The bottom line: Anjin doesn't chase crowds. It stays tight, ingredient-focused and deliberate, in a tiny room where every dish has to pull its weight.
