Sushi Ai in the Broadmoor Glen neighborhood punches above its weight

The vibe: Sushi Ai keeps things simple — in appearance and on the menu — but the staff is always a delight.

• On our second visit, one of the chefs transformed a mandarin orange into a chicken sculpture with just a few deft knife cuts.
• Little touches like fish lanterns and sushi boat flourishes — complete with a fishing panda figurine — add a touch of whimsy.

Pro tip: Order four or more rolls and your meal arrives aboard a sushi boat.

Dig in: You'll find all the Japanese staples here, soups, noodles and teriyaki chicken, plus Korean dishes like bibimbap.

• Their St. Louis Roll is basically a deep-fried Philly roll of fun.
• And the shrimp nigiri never has that rubbery texture that lesser sushi spots can't seem to avoid.

Zoom in: They've got solid vegetarian options from veggie rolls to tempura. But the crispy tofu deserves a special mention — crunchy on the outside, then silky inside and served with a rich, barbecue-like sauce that pairs perfectly.

Best bite: Hard to go wrong with the lemon roll — a California roll with tempura asparagus, topped with salmon, a thin slice of lemon and a drizzle of honey sauce.

• Runner-up: The tuna tataki, finished with crispy garlic.

Just desserts: The mochi ice cream is the same kind you can get almost anywhere, but Sushi Ai adds a little spritz of whipped cream — a small touch that feels thoughtful and delightful.