Barrel-aged IPA gives a big chocolate kiss on top of the hops

Level Crossing Brewery has taken its award-winning Black Album IPA and stepped it up a notch, aging it in High West Bourye barrels.

• It's basically a whole new beverage.

It didn't occur to me that a year in barrels could affect a beer so dramatically, but Black Album was already full of surprises.

• The original has the hops you're expecting from an IPA, with enough sweet maltiness to keep it from tasting like dandelion stains.

The latest: The barrel-aged version released this weekend gives it a big chocolate kiss without smothering the hops.

• If you're still empty-handed for Valentine's Day, stop by the South Salt Lake brewery for a few cans — a fine alternative to a heart-shaped box of meh candy.