Mar 29, 2023 - Food and Drink

Chef Junior Borges' awesome Brazilian eatery hidden in The Village

A photo of a chicken dish

Tastes just like chicken, but better. Photo: Tasha "Tasty" Tsiaperas/Axios

One of the best new restaurants in Dallas is tucked away in The Village, the sprawling apartment community on the northeast side of town.

  • Walk past the community recreation center and a resort-style pool and find modern Brazilian dining at Meridian.

Driving the news: Meridian's Junior Borges was named James Beard Award semifinalist for outstanding chef. The finalists will be announced Wednesday.

The details: We started with the yuca fries ($7), grilled "beach cheese" on a stick ($7) and the kohlrabi Caesar salad ($15).

  • Each dish was delectable, especially the cheese, which is served on a grate above smoking herbs.
  • For main courses, we ordered the half chicken ($36) and fusilli verde with pork ragu ($29.) Chicken may not be the sexiest dinner dish, but it was tender and flavorful, a delight to share. And our dining companion enjoyed the pasta so much that other diners said, "I'll have what he's having."
A photo of a chocolate dessert
Perfect complement to Meridian's spicy negroni. Photo: Tasha "Hazelnutty" Tsiaperas/Axios
  • To end the meal, we ordered the decadent, chocolatey brigadeiro ($14) to enjoy with cocktails.

A must-have: The bite-sized pancakes topped with caviar ($14) come close to rivaling the foie gras stuffed prunes at Lucia for Dallas' perfect bite.

A photo of bite-sized pancakes topped with caviar
Sustainable caviar, creamy concoction, perfect bite. Photo: Tasha "Happy Mouth" Tsiaperas/Axios

The bottom line: The Village is more than a residential community with a colorful history. Even if Borges doesn't advance in the James Beard Awards, his cuisine is keeping Dallas on the culinary map.

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