A visitors' guide to Nashville, written by visitors

1 big thing: Guess who came to Nashville

2. What we ate

3. What we did

4. Music Monday: A night at the Ryman

exterior of the Ryman Auditorium at night.

Fresh job openings around town

5. 1 team photo to go

🌦 Today's weather: A slight chance of showers, with a high of 68°.

🏈 Situational awareness: It was a perfect weekend of football for the state of Tennessee. On Saturday, the Volunteers drubbed division rival Kentucky 44-6 to set up a showdown with No. 1 Georgia.

Derrick Henry dominated the Texans yesterday to lead the division-leading Titans to a 17-10 win.

🎃 Programming note: It's Halloween, and Axios Southern bureau chief Michael Graff and associate editor Jen Ashley are dressing up as Adam and Nate.

In other words: We're taking over today's newsletter.

This newsletter is 934 words — a 3.5-minute read.

Michael is mentally strolling through Nashville memories and listening to "24 Frames."

Jen is listening to "Live Oak" by Jason Isbell and plotting her next trip to Nashville.

Nate and Adam will be back to our regular programming tomorrow.

This newsletter was edited by Hadley Malcolm and copy edited by Katie Lewis.

Nashville

A daily look at the most significant and interesting stories affecting Nashville. Written by Nate Rau and Adam Tamburin.

Axios Nashville

Standard

👋 Axios editor Jen here! Don't tell Adam, but I've always considered myself more of a casual Taylor Swift listener.

But my sister, a devoted Swiftie, politely demanded I attend an Atlanta show as her +1.

Be a mastermind: As you may know, the show is three hours long. Wear comfortable shoes and plan accordingly. I took screenshots of the setlist to reference as needed.

I timed my restroom break with the start of my least favorite section, which Adam won't allow me to include.

Pictures to burn: Lower your phone's exposure for taking photos or videos during the show.

Make sure you're not singing while recording, unless you want to hear your voice over Taylor's.

Arrive bejeweled: A themed shirt or dress isn't enough — you gotta add some pieces of flair. In ATL, I saw heart-shaped sunglasses, bedazzled cowboy hats, and a life-sized, cardboard cutout of Jake Gyllenhaal wrapped in a red scarf.

It's a love story: I wanted so badly to be too cool for this show. But then the lights dimmed, fans of all ages erupted with excitement and Taylor Swift appeared. She danced, sang and bantered with the crowd for three hours.

She's a force like no other in the industry today, and I emerged on the other side of this Eras experience a full-fledged Swiftie.

Dear reader: Nissan Stadium only allows clear bags. Portable cell phone chargers are OK.

Roads will be closed around the stadium, so figure that into your arrival time.

Merchandise stands and parking lots open at noon each day.

Tips for attending Taylor Swift's Eras Tour in Nashville

Here's what to know before you head to Nissan Stadium.

Taylor Swift performs onstage during The Eras Tour at Mercedes-Benz Stadium

Taylor Swift performs onstage in Atlanta. Photo: Terence Rushin/TAS23/Getty Images for TAS Rights Management

Taylor Swift

👋 Axios editor Jen here! Don&#x27;t tell Adam, but I&#x27;ve always considered myself more of a casual Taylor Swift listener.<ul><li>But my sister, a devoted Swiftie, politely demanded I attend an Atlanta show as her +1.</li></ul>Here are my Tayla Tips:

Things to Do

Raleigh

If you're ready to trade in oak trees for palms for a weekend, it might be time to visit Charleston. 

Driving the news: Oyster season (for those who celebrate) is underway and temperatures have fallen to a degree that you can visit the city without evaporating immediately upon arrival.

If you've never been to South Carolina, this is where you should start. 

If you've only ever been to Myrtle Beach, there's a support group for that, I'd imagine.

Charleston is Savannah's older, classier sibling. It's OBX, but more photogenic (*ducks*). 

A visit to the Holy City is a must. But don't take it from me — take it from Travel & Leisure magazine, who have named it the best city in the U.S. for ten straight years.

Edgar Allen Poe wrote short stories about its shores; George Washington raved about its women; Bill Murray and Darius Rucker both call it home.

Getting here: Charleston is about 4-5 hours' driving distance from Raleigh. Flying might save you some time, but not much. Nonstop service between the two cities isn't currently offered.

Where to stay: Downtown, on the peninsula. If you're ballin' on a budget check out NotSo Hostel. If you're just ballin', go to Hotel Bennett.

Getting around: The peninsula is small enough that you can get around by foot, bicycle or rideshare. Don't worry about renting a car — we have limited parking spaces and a surplus of confusing, one-way streets.

Pro tip: Take a pedicab at least once. It's its own adventure.

Don't let lunch or dinner be an afterthought. Charleston is perhaps best known for its culinary scene, and numerous restaurants, chefs and bar programs have received national recognition.

Lenoir: North Carolina's own chef Vivian Howard, of Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, opened two restaurants in Charleston in 2020. Lenoir, named for Howard's home county, offers Southern food that's elevated but in a way that doesn't stray too far from its roots. 

167 Raw: This oyster and raw bar is right in the heart of downtown. Small plates are the way to go. Order the space potato — trust me.

Fleet Landing: Downtown's only true waterfront restaurant, its something-for-everybody menu includes Charleston classics, like shrimp and grits.

Little Palm: This trendy, poolside cocktail bar opened last year, and this year was named one of the Best Bars in America by Esquire.

Eleve: Though you can't go wrong with any downtown rooftop bar, this one atop the Grand Bohemian Hotel stands out for its Alice In Wonderland-esque aesthetic. 

Yes, and: The wine blending class at the hotel's downstairs bar makes for a fun evening activity. You can take home your own custom wine with a custom label as a keepsake.

Carmella's: The silver lining of being a city beloved by wedding and bachelorette parties is that they can support a high quantity of late-night dessert bars. Carmella's is the tried-and-true choice for grabbing an espresso martini and a slice of cake before calling it a night. 

Tour: Take a harbor cruise, a walking ghost tour or visit one of our many museums.

Of note: The International African American Museum is set to open early next year and will be located on the site of where some 40% of enslaved African people first entered North America.

Explore on foot: The best way to take in the city's architecture and natural beauty is to immerse yourself within it. Start in the historic district to see some of the oldest still-standing buildings in the country, then make yourself to White Point Gardens or Waterfront Park for harbor views.

Or, walk up King Street for sights and shopping.

Hit the beach: I can't in good conscience recommend a trip to this little coastal city without a visit to its coast. 

Our closest beaches are within a 30-minute drive from downtown. 

Plan for at least a half-day there to have time to enjoy the beach, explore the island and grab a bite to eat.

For a no-frills, fried Lowcountry seafood dinner go to Bowens Island near Folly Beach. Avoid the line by getting there early. Stay for the sunset, if you can.

To pretend it's no-frills when there are actually plenty, go to Sullivan's Fish Camp on Sullivan's Island.

Its atmosphere is designed to appear unassuming but is professionally done by a team whose former clients include Wes Anderson. 

Yes, but: If you want to see the Lowcountry but don't like sand, skip the beach and go to Shem Creek in Mount Pleasant instead.

A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh

Here's how to spend a weekend in the Holy City.

South Carolina

If you&#x27;re ready to trade in oak trees for palms for a weekend, it might be time to visit Charleston. Driving the news: Oyster season (<a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="for those who celebrate" data-vars-click-url="https://www.whitestoneoysters.com/blogs/an-oyster-life/r-you-crazy-oysters-are-in-season-year-round#:~:text=It&#x27;s%20a%20commonly%20held%20belief,in%2Dseason&#x27;%20year%20round." data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.whitestoneoysters.com/blogs/an-oyster-life/r-you-crazy-oysters-are-in-season-year-round#:~:text=It&#x27;s%20a%20commonly%20held%20belief,in%2Dseason&#x27;%20year%20round." target="_blank">for those who celebrate</a>) is underway and temperatures have fallen to a degree that you can visit the city without evaporating immediately upon arrival.<ul><li>If you&#x27;ve never been to South Carolina, this is where you should start. </li><li>If you&#x27;ve only ever been to Myrtle Beach, there&#x27;s a support group for that, I&#x27;d imagine.</li><li>Charleston is Savannah&#x27;s older, classier sibling. It&#x27;s OBX, but <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="more photogenic" data-vars-click-url="https://www.atlasofwonders.com/2020/04/outer-banks-series-kildare-filming-location.html" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.atlasofwonders.com/2020/04/outer-banks-series-kildare-filming-location.html" target="_blank">more photogenic</a> (*ducks*). </li></ul>A visit to the Holy City is a must. But don&#x27;t take it from me — take it from Travel &amp; Leisure magazine, who have named it the best city in the U.S. for <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="ten straight years" data-vars-click-url="https://www.travelandleisure.com/trip-ideas/best-united-states-city-charleston-south-carolina" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.travelandleisure.com/trip-ideas/best-united-states-city-charleston-south-carolina" target="_blank">ten straight years</a>.<ul><li>Edgar Allen Poe wrote short stories <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="about its shores" data-vars-click-url="https://www.southerncultures.org/article/unburied-treasure-edgar-allen-poe-and-the-south-carolina-lowcountry/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.southerncultures.org/article/unburied-treasure-edgar-allen-poe-and-the-south-carolina-lowcountry/" target="_blank">about its shores</a>; George Washington <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="raved about its women" data-vars-click-url="https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=47791#:~:text=%22there%20were%20at%20least%20400%20ladies%20%2D%20the%20Number%20and%20appearance%20of%20which%20exceeded%20anything%20of%20the%20kind%20I%20had%20ever%20seen.%22" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=47791#:~:text=%22there%20were%20at%20least%20400%20ladies%20%2D%20the%20Number%20and%20appearance%20of%20which%20exceeded%20anything%20of%20the%20kind%20I%20had%20ever%20seen.%22" target="_blank">raved about its women</a>; Bill Murray and Darius Rucker both call it home.</li></ul>Getting here: Charleston is about 4-5 hours&#x27; driving distance from Raleigh. Flying might save you some time, but not much. Nonstop service between the two cities isn&#x27;t currently offered.Where to stay: Downtown, on the peninsula. If you&#x27;re ballin&#x27; on a budget check out <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="NotSo Hostel" data-vars-click-url="https://notsohostel.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://notsohostel.com/" target="_blank">NotSo Hostel</a>. If you&#x27;re just ballin&#x27;, go to <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Hotel Bennett" data-vars-click-url="https://www.hotelbennett.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.hotelbennett.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Bennett</a>.Getting around: The peninsula is small enough that you can get around by foot, bicycle or rideshare. Don&#x27;t worry about renting a car — we have limited parking spaces and a surplus of confusing, one-way streets.Pro tip: Take a pedicab at least once. It&#x27;s its own adventure.<h5>Eat:</h5><div><div class="instagram-wrapper"><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="true" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg0BqBel0-G/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=" data-instgrm-version="13"></blockquote></div><div style="display:none"></div></div>Don&#x27;t let lunch or dinner be an afterthought. Charleston is perhaps best known for its culinary scene, and numerous restaurants, chefs and bar programs have received national recognition.<a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Lenoir:" data-vars-click-url="https://www.dineatlenoir.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.dineatlenoir.com/" target="_blank">Lenoir:</a> North Carolina&#x27;s own chef Vivian Howard, of Chef &amp; the Farmer in Kinston, opened two restaurants in Charleston in 2020. Lenoir, named for Howard&#x27;s home county, offers Southern food that&#x27;s elevated but in a way that doesn&#x27;t stray too far from its roots. <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="167 Raw:" data-vars-click-url="https://167raw.com/charleston/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://167raw.com/charleston/" target="_blank">167 Raw:</a> This oyster and raw bar is right in the heart of downtown. Small plates are the way to go. Order the space potato — trust me.<a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Fleet Landing:" data-vars-click-url="https://fleetlanding.net/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://fleetlanding.net/" target="_blank">Fleet Landing:</a> Downtown&#x27;s only true waterfront restaurant, its something-for-everybody menu includes Charleston classics, like shrimp and grits.<h5>Drink: </h5><div><div class="instagram-wrapper"><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="true" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Car_oUiOdsp/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=" data-instgrm-version="13"></blockquote></div><div style="display:none"></div></div><a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Little Palm:" data-vars-click-url="https://www.littlepalmbar.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.littlepalmbar.com/" target="_blank">Little Palm:</a> This trendy, poolside cocktail bar opened last year, and this year was named one of the <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Best Bars in America" data-vars-click-url="https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/bars/a40253934/best-bars-america-2022/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/bars/a40253934/best-bars-america-2022/" target="_blank">Best Bars in America</a> by Esquire.<a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Eleve:" data-vars-click-url="https://www.elevecharleston.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.elevecharleston.com/" target="_blank">Eleve:</a> Though you can&#x27;t go wrong with any downtown rooftop bar, this one atop the Grand Bohemian Hotel stands out for its Alice In Wonderland-esque aesthetic. <ul><li>Yes, and: The <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="wine blending class" data-vars-click-url="https://www.kesslercollection.com/bohemian-charleston/experiences/wine-blending/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.kesslercollection.com/bohemian-charleston/experiences/wine-blending/" target="_blank">wine blending class</a> at the hotel&#x27;s downstairs bar makes for a fun evening activity. You can take home your own custom wine with a custom label as a keepsake.</li></ul><a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Carmella&#x27;s:" data-vars-click-url="https://carmellasdessertbar.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://carmellasdessertbar.com/" target="_blank">Carmella&#x27;s:</a> The silver lining of being a city beloved by wedding and bachelorette parties is that they can support a high quantity of late-night dessert bars. Carmella&#x27;s is the tried-and-true choice for grabbing an espresso martini and a slice of cake before calling it a night. <h5>Do:</h5>Tour: Take a <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="harbor cruise" data-vars-click-url="https://charlestonharbortours.com/tours-cruises/daily-harbor-tours/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://charlestonharbortours.com/tours-cruises/daily-harbor-tours/" target="_blank">harbor cruise</a>, a <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="walking ghost tour" data-vars-click-url="https://www.bulldogtours.com/tours/ghost" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.bulldogtours.com/tours/ghost" target="_blank">walking ghost tour</a> or visit one of our <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="many museums" data-vars-click-url="https://www.charlestoncvb.com/plan-your-trip/tours-attractions~204/museums~1370/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.charlestoncvb.com/plan-your-trip/tours-attractions~204/museums~1370/" target="_blank">many museums</a>.<ul><li>Of note: <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="The International African American Museum" data-vars-click-url="http://iaamuseum.org/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="http://iaamuseum.org/" target="_blank">The International African American Museum</a> is set to open early next year and will be located on the site of where some 40% of enslaved African people first entered North America.</li></ul>Explore on foot: The best way to take in the city&#x27;s architecture and natural beauty is to immerse yourself within it. Start in the historic district to see some of the oldest still-standing buildings in the country, then make yourself to White Point Gardens or Waterfront Park for harbor views.<ul><li>Or, walk up King Street for sights and shopping.</li></ul>Hit the beach: I can&#x27;t in good conscience recommend a trip to this little coastal city without a visit to its coast. <ul><li>Our closest beaches are within a 30-minute drive from downtown. </li><li>Plan for at least a half-day there to have time to enjoy the beach, explore the island and grab a bite to eat.</li></ul>For a no-frills, fried Lowcountry seafood dinner go to <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Bowens Island" data-vars-click-url="https://bowensisland.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://bowensisland.com/" target="_blank">Bowens Island</a> near Folly Beach. Avoid the line by getting there early. Stay for the sunset, if you can.To pretend it&#x27;s no-frills when there are actually plenty, go to <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Sullivan&#x27;s Fish Camp" data-vars-click-url="https://www.sullivansfishcamp.com/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.sullivansfishcamp.com/" target="_blank">Sullivan&#x27;s Fish Camp</a> on Sullivan&#x27;s Island.<ul><li>Its atmosphere is designed to appear unassuming but is professionally done by a team whose former clients <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="include Wes Anderson" data-vars-click-url="http://basicprojects.us/about-2" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="http://basicprojects.us/about-2" target="_blank">include Wes Anderson</a>. </li></ul>Yes, but: If you want to see the Lowcountry but <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="don&#x27;t like sand" data-vars-click-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tLf1JO5bvE" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tLf1JO5bvE" target="_blank">don&#x27;t like sand</a>, skip the beach and go to <a class="gtmContentClick" data-vars-link-text="Shem Creek" data-vars-click-url="https://experiencemountpleasant.com/waterfront-at-shem-creek/" data-vars-content-id="1e201c52-e783-4f9b-b790-f59278a1bbf9" data-vars-headline="A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh" data-vars-event-category="story" data-vars-sub-category="story" data-vars-item="in_content_link" href="https://experiencemountpleasant.com/waterfront-at-shem-creek/" target="_blank">Shem Creek</a> in Mount Pleasant instead.

We were somewhere near the Parthenon when Adam, one half of your regular Axios Nashville newsletter duo, started adding personal details to our driving tour.

"That's the hospital where I was born," he said. Then he drove up a quarter-mile and said, "and that's where my grandmother was cremated."

Why it matters: The drive-about-town was a fitting kickoff to our two-night swing through your great city earlier this month, where dualities exist on every block … 

… where tourists blend with locals, where an old football stadium may soon give way to a new football stadium, where the joy of hot chicken often comes with a side of stomach pains, and where scooters and cars struggle to share the road. 

State of play: Nate and Adam asked you for recommendations on where to take us during our trip, and did you ever deliver! Two days weren't enough to make it through the list.

Watching them choose from it was part of the fun. They seemed to agonize when deciding between spots that longtime Nashville residents love and those that fit the visitors' checklist. 

This was telling, because it strikes us that part of Nashville's soul is that it's difficult to distinguish between what's authentic and what's for tourists, in part because tourism is one of Nashville's most authentic traits. 

Martin's Bar-B-Que. Photo: Michael Graff/Axios

Visiting from the Carolinas, Tennessee's cuisine wasn't exactly foreign to us, but the approaches were new. We made sure to hit the four Bs:

Barbecue: Our first stop was Tennessee-based Martin's Bar-B-Que, where we ordered a generous sampling for the table. 

Tender, flavorful meats served with down-home sides (how 'bout that cornbread hoecake?) and stacks of plain white bread. 

Bushwackers: Stomachs already full of barbecue, we skipped the food menu at Edley's in East Nashville and went straight for Tennessee's unofficial state cocktail.

We split one of these boozy chocolate milkshakes four ways, and could've had another, but had places to be.

Beard: Ice cream headaches be damned, we walked up the slope to the James Beard-nominated speakeasy Attaboy. Famously, there's no drink menu. The bar squad simply asks your preferred spirit and what kind of mood you're in, and they make one for the moment.

Reality check: Jen tried to order vodka and struck out. A bartender explained that Attaboy doesn't serve it in part because vodka doesn't add much flavor to a cocktail.

Biscuits: Like barbecue, biscuits are a Southern art form, and Michael of Charlotte (Bojangles) and Jen of Charleston (Callie's) both have high standards.

Biscuit Love in the Gulch exceeded expectations. We both ordered the East Nasty — a flaky, buttery biscuit (good) sandwiching fried chicken (better) and topped with a generous pour of sausage gravy (best). Get there early if you hate lines.

Also: Shoutout to Lockeland Table, where we shared dinner on night one: top-quality food without an intimidating menu or overbearing atmosphere. Don't miss the pommes frites — or the dipping sauce that comes with them. 

Night two at Sixty Vines was also a winner. Italian food with wine on tap, and a huge window overlooking the Ryman? Say less.

Our arrival in Nashville coincided with a cold front. A bench at Centennial Park, surrounded by fall foliage, was the optimal setting for taking in the cooler temps.

The pond at Centennial Park. Photo: Jen Ashley/Axios

The intrigue: We didn't go inside the Parthenon to see the giant sculpture of Athena, but Adam did tell us the story of when, one cold Nashville winter, freezing geese were rescued from the park's pond by a parks employee with a mallet.

That's a story you can only get with a local.

How it ended: On the eve of our departure, we found ourselves atop the W hotel. The pricey cocktails at its rooftop bar, PROOF, were offset by a glorious view.

Hanging out on a rooftop watching the city sparkle lets you see all of Nashville even when you can't really see it all.

Ryman Auditorium. Photo: Michael Graff/Axios

And since Michael is a diehard fan of Jason Isbell ("40-year-old dad music," as he calls it), and Jen had never been to Ryman Auditorium, we emphatically checked the live music box with Isbell on night four of his eight-night residency at the iconic venue.

The Axios Nashville playlist features the night's set.

💭 Jen's thought bubble: Seeing Isbell was no doubt a treat, but the thrill was just being at the Ryman, experiencing an institution that will outlast any one show, artist or audience member. 

That sentiment was underscored by the statue of Loretta Lynn outside, still covered in fresh flowers and tributes.  

💭 Michael's thought bubble: Isbell's work matters to me mostly because of the words he writes, and the Ryman's gift is that it delivers every lyric to the letter. 

I've seen him a dozen or so times now, and from a 2016 night in Austin with the woman who'd become my wife, to this show with terrific co-workers, I can tell you his music is best when you're with the right people in the right place at the right time.

We talk to Nate and Adam every day on Zoom and Slack. But being together at the Ryman, watching Isbell and his band all play their parts, we were reminded how neat it is when pieces of a whole come together. 

The team. Photo: courtesy of Adam Tamburin

The bottom line: From a driving tour to the Mother Church, our journey followed a wonderful arc, and by the end we'd found the true magic of Nashville — something beyond the must-eat-hot-chicken-and-go-to-Broadway-honky-tonks, to the real place where people live and die and drink and put it all in a country song.

Axios Nashville's editors dish on their two-day tour through Music City.

Photo: John Greim/LightRocket via Getty Images

We were somewhere near the Parthenon when Adam, one half of your regular Axios Nashville newsletter duo, started adding personal details to our driving tour.<ul><li>&quot;That&#x27;s the hospital where I was born,&quot; he said. Then he drove up a quarter-mile and said, &quot;and that&#x27;s where my grandmother was cremated.&quot;</li></ul>

Axios Raleigh

Data: Raleigh Police Department; Map: Thomas Oide/Axios

An off-duty police officer on his way to work, a woman just shy of her 35th birthday, and a 16-year-old boy were among the five people killed in Friday's mass shooting along the Neuse River Greenway Thursday night.

Police say a 15-year-old white male, who is in custody, opened fire in a shooting spree that started in the Hedingham neighborhood and continued onto the popular greenway, leaving a crime scene nearly two miles long.

City officials have not released the name of the suspected shooter. 

The latest: Wake County District Attorney Lorrin Freeman told Axios Friday petitions have been filed against the suspect, but her office is seeking to have the case transferred to superior court, where the teen would be tried as an adult. 

That all depends on the suspect's condition, however, which her office is closely monitoring. 

The victims: At a press conference Friday morning, police chief Estella Patterson the deceased victims were identified as: 52-year-old Nicole Conners, 34-year-old Mary Marshall, 49-year-old Susan Karnatz, 29-year-old Raleigh Police Department officer Gabriel Torres, and 16-year-old James Roger Thompson. 

One woman is still in the hospital in critical condition. 

33-year-old senior officer Casey Joseph Clark was also hospitalized with an injury, but was released later last night.

Police say the suspect, a 15-year-old male, began shooting people in the Hedingham neighborhood near before fleeing onto the greenway and shooting more people there.

At 9:37pm Thursday police said the suspect was in custody. Patterson said this morning the suspect was hospitalized and in critical condition, but did not indicate how he was injured.

What's still unclear: Police did not indicate any possible motive, or whether the suspect is related to any of the victims. 

Details: Just after 5pm Thursday, police reported an active shooter situation near the greenway. For hours, police closed sections of Hedingham and warned residents to stay inside. 

A visibly shaken Mayor Mary-Ann Baldwin was joined by Gov. Roy Cooper and Raleigh police officials at a 10:45pm press conference Thursday. 

Officials said at that update that one person remained in the hospital in critical condition.

A second officer, one who was responding to the shooting, was also hospitalized but had since been released.

What else we know:  The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives in Charlotte confirmed it was among the multiple law enforcement agencies responding to the shooting.

What they're saying: "Tonight terror has reached our doorstep," Gov. Roy Cooper said at last night's press conference. "The nightmare of every community has come to Raleigh." 

"All of us have many questions, but as we seek answers to those questions, let's all pray for these victims, their families, the communities that have been shocked by this, and that we all depend on each other and help each other during this difficult period of time."

This is a developing story. Please check back for updates.

15-year-old charged in Raleigh shooting to be tried as adult, DA says

Police said the victims included an off-duty police officer and a 16-year-old boy

Mass shootings

An off-duty police officer on his way to work, a woman just shy of her 35th birthday, and a 16-year-old boy were among the five people killed in Friday&#x27;s mass shooting along the Neuse River Greenway Thursday night.<ul><li>Police say a 15-year-old white male, who is in custody, opened fire in a shooting spree that started in the Hedingham neighborhood and continued onto the popular greenway, leaving a crime scene nearly two miles long.</li><li>City officials have not released the name of the suspected shooter. </li></ul>The latest: Wake County District Attorney Lorrin Freeman told Axios Friday petitions have been filed against the suspect, but her office is seeking to have the case transferred to superior court, where the teen would be tried as an adult.

News

National

A teenage suspect who police allege was a shooter in an incident that left five people, including an off-duty police officer, dead in Raleigh, North Carolina is hospitalized in critical condition, officials said Friday morning. 

The latest: Wake County District Attorney Lorrin Freeman told Axios Friday petitions have been filed against the suspect, but her office is seeking to have the case transferred to superior court, where the teen would be tried as an adult.

That all depends on the suspect's condition, however, which Freeman's office is closely monitoring.

"A 15-year-old white male suspect" was taken into custody and is in critical condition, police chief Estella Patterson said at a press conference. Police did not name the suspect, but identified four of the five victims.

The five people who died in the shooting are Nicole Conners, 52; Susan Karnatz, 49; Mary Marshall, 35; Raleigh police officer Gabriel Torres, 29; and a 16-year-old white male.

An officer who was injured in the shooting has been treated and released from the hospital. One other person who was injured remains hospitalized in critical condition, police said.

Details: Lt. Jason Borneo, of the Raleigh Police Department, said at a briefing late Thursday that a juvenile male suspect, whom he didn't name, was taken into custody at 9:37pm and there was no further threat to the community.

Borneo said an officer who responded to the shooting near a public greenway was taken to a local hospital, along with another victim. The officer has since been released, but the other victim remained in a critical condition.

Driving the news: Raleigh Police Department officers tweeted just before 6pm that officers were responding to a shooting in the area of the Neuse River Greenway, a popular bike trail for Raleigh residents northeast of downtown, and urged residents to "remain in their homes."

Raleigh Mayor Mary-Ann Baldwin said at a Thursday evening briefing that at least two people were transported to a local hospital, including a responding officer.

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives in Charlotte confirmed it was among the multiple law enforcement agencies responding to the shooting.

What they're saying: President Joe Biden said in a statement Friday that there have been "too many mass shootings across America," referencing the Buffalo and Uvalde attacks from earlier this year.

"Enough," he said. "We’ve grieved and prayed with too many families who have had to bear the terrible burden of these mass shootings. Too many families have had spouses, parents, and children taken from them forever."

Biden also praised first responders in his statement, adding that his administration and North Carolina Gov. Roy Cooper will work with local authorities to investigate the shooting.

"Tonight terror has reached our doorstep," Cooper said at the briefing Thursday evening. "The nightmare of every community has come to Raleigh.

"All of us have many questions, but as we seek answers to those questions, let's all pray for these victims, their families, the communities that have been shocked by this, and that we all depend on each other and help each other during this difficult period of time," Cooper added.

The big picture: Thursday's shooting in Raleigh was the deadliest in North Carolina this year, according to the Gun Violence Archive.

There have been more than 500 mass shootings this year in which at least four gunshot victims have been killed or injured in the U.S., per the nonprofit group.

Editor's note: This article has been updated with new details throughout.

Charlotte

Charlotte Members

Charlotte Alerts

Picture of the Charlotte skyline with CLT written across it.

Axios Charlotte gets you smarter, faster on the most consequential news and developments unfolding in your backyard.

Axios Charlotte

Axios Charlotte Thought Bubble

Axios Charlotte Deep Dive

Raleigh Alerts

A daily look at the most significant and interesting stories affecting Raleigh.

Axios Raleigh Thought Bubble

Raleigh Members

Raleigh, North Carolina, shooting leaves at least 5 people dead

"A 15-year-old white male suspect" was taken into custody, police said Friday morning.

North Carolina Gov. Roy Cooper speaking at a briefing late Thursday.

North Carolina Gov. Roy Cooper speaking at a briefing with city officials in Raleigh late Thursday. Photo: City of Raleigh Government/Facebook

Jen Ashley

Stories

Tips for attending Taylor Swift's Eras Tour in Nashville

A guide to Charleston, S.C., 4.5 hours from Raleigh

A visitors' guide to Nashville, written by visitors

Raleigh, North Carolina, shooting leaves at least 5 people dead

15-year-old charged in Raleigh shooting to be tried as adult, DA says

Newsletter editions

🤠 Visitors' guide